Lapa Palace Hotel
Far from modern-day Lisbon traffic, perched on a hilltop in the middle of the city’s most civilized district, sits a 19th century palace surrounded by fairytale gardens, fountains, flowers and century-old trees in whose branches birds are encouraged to nest. Opulence reigns at the Lapa, with the neo-classical pink- and gold-frescoed splendor of the Coronado Room as its aesthetic heart. Each of the rooms in the old wing is decorated in seriously different style—the combined effort of four designers. Choose between Art Deco, Orientalist, and Belle Epoque rooms, all of which sport grandiose features, from gold muslin curtains to hand-carved Indian headboards. The new wing, on the other hand, has a quieter, more unified charm. But every room has its own balcony, with a marvelous view of the grounds and the city, as well as sublime bathrooms with hand-painted Portuguese tiles, massive tubs, and heaps of towels.
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Some think it’s a shame that the former Portuguese restaurant has been replaced by a Venetian one, but the cuisine draws in the locals by the dozens, making this a perfect place to catch some authentic, well-heeled Lisbon buzz.
But it’s in the warm, unpretentious service that Lapa positively glows, which is why it’s a favorite with society A-listers, businessmen, and families alike. Execs like the warmth and efficiency of their message service while children like the pint-sized bathrobes and slippers. It’s the rare business hotel that doubles as a leisure hotel. At the Lapa, many executives choose to have their families join them on the weekend
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But perhaps the most touching aspect of the Lapa Palace is the manager’s fondness for the traditional azulejo tiles of the country, as evidenced by the bathrooms, the tiled landscape behind the garden fountain, and the hand-painted miniature tiles on your pillow at bedtime. Just ask him. Managers of palace hotels are notoriously stiff, silent, and formal, but this one, like his hotel, is a warm blooded Portuguese. He’ll be happy to talk azulejo for hours, and probably pour you a few glasses of port to boot. |
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